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The long table: why we should eat together more often

Shared meals are disappearing from our weeks. Bringing them back may be the simplest way to feel closer to the people around us.

Friends sharing food around a long table
Photo by Spencer Davis / Unsplash

Somewhere along the way, dinner became something we do alone, in front of a screen, between two other things. The long table, with its mismatched chairs and dishes passed from hand to hand, became a once-a-year event.

It does not have to be. A shared meal needs very little: one big dish, some bread, a bottle of something, and enough chairs. The food matters less than the time. Two hours at a table is two hours of conversation that would not have happened otherwise.

White plates filled with small dishes on a table
Small plates make everyone reach across the table. Photo by Stefan Vladimirov / Unsplash

We asked readers how they keep the habit alive. The answers were wonderfully practical: a standing Sunday lunch with neighbors, a monthly potluck where everyone brings one dish from their childhood, a rule that phones go in a basket by the door.

Start small. Invite two people this week. Cook something you have made a hundred times. The table will take care of the rest.

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Maya Lindqvist

Travel and food editor. Collects train timetables and grandmothers’ recipes in equal measure.

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